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Zoom Rabbit's University of Zen Swordsmanship


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edlib: You haven't seen anything yet.

 

Zoom as to your question on Short Swords and Small Swords.

 

Yes, the term "short sword" in modern times to often refers to a sword that is just smaller then others.

 

This type of sword is not a sword designed for war, but instead for dueling. Their size made them ideal weapons for the crowded urban steets of the Renaissance. This is why these swords are nicknamed town-swords, walking-swords. Towards the end of the 1600s the english began calling these swords "Short-swords".

 

Between the late 1600s to the early 1800s the upper classes of society took fancy to this sword, and began to decorate them. They did this to such an extent that a subclass of this type of sword was generate. This class was referred to as "costume-swords" and was not a real weapon. In modern times I would call this subclass wall hangers (pretty to look at but otherwise useless).

 

The short sword barely had an edge to them. Cutting fell out of favor as a technique. All though some did put an edge to cut the unlucky person who attempted to grip the blade. During the Renaissance blades often lacked an edge allowing to grip their oppenets blade or parry with the palm of the hand. THis will be dicussed further in future lessons.

 

As I said earlier this sword was a dueling sword. Dueling which was popular event during that time period. Modern sport fencing can be traced back more to the Short sword than to the Rapier actually. The fencing foil and Epee are the decendants of the small sword.

 

Those who used the small sword developed their own etiqueete and formilazed manner (although I doubt some followed this). Duels involving these swords usually ended after one party recieved a small injury.

 

Pratice with the sword often included no head gear so control was a must. It was a large disgrace if you hit your fencing partners face. This sword was around when swords themselves were fading into the past. The short sword was a gentlemens sword used to protect their honor if ever insulted.

 

I hope that clears up any confusion about the Short sword. Keep in mind a sword can be short but that doesn't mean it is a short sword.

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working on my lesson.

 

granted, i'm not using a Wakizashi/Tanto or a Katana by Zoomie standereds, but the same tactics and style can be used with them. I developed some of my material though practicing with them, and since the blades are about the size of thier japanese counter part, can be used with the actual japanese blades.

 

reason for me not working with actual japanese blades: Limited funds.

 

also, my lesson will be image heavy. it's the only way to really show my style of combat and stances. sorry. ^_^

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For purposes of clarity, then, when I say 'shortsword,' I'm talking about a modern weapon (1909 being quite recent compared to medieval or renaissance times) while Admiral means something quite specfically different when he says 'short sword.' ;) Everyone keeping along?

 

Crackmonkey: I never said you had to have a *real* sword to do this. Good lord, no--by those standards, no one with less than $1000 can do this. Frankly, modern steel katanas are just fine, or even *shudder* stainless steel (provided you never actually hit another sword with it) would suffice. Heck, a ten dollar bokken or broken mop handle would do.

 

Edlib: It's okay. If you want, you can nail him for using the roundeye label 'kung fu' sword to describe the dao and 'tai chi' sword to describe the jian... :dozey:

 

So what's wrong with stainless steel? Nothing, as long as you're going to put it on the wall and look at it. It will never rust--yay :rolleyes:. If you take it down and use it, though, it will shatter like plastic against good steel. Stainless steel is an alloy, which isn't as flexible as old-fashioned carbon steel, and is therefore less able to flex and bend in combat. Remember, steel that must be kept oiled is the good stuff. :D

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Soitenly!

 

What the Admiral is referring to is actually the jian sword, which is frequently used in the practice of tai chi. There are very flimsy, very light knock-offs available in the US, ostensibly intended to be used in tai chi practice. In truth, however, tai chi is practiceable with any sword, and since tai chi involves working with the flow of your own body's energy...a warrior would be best advised to use his own personal weapon for this. In a very intimate way (and I ain't talking reverse sword-swallowing here, sickos) a warrior and his sword are strongly connected; he would depend upon it with his life, and it is as a part of his body. It is this connection between warrior and weapon that tai chi makes use of in sword type meditation.

 

The jian sword is widely known here in the US as the 'Green Destiny,' the long, straight sword we see in Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon...although that particular sword weighed a great deal more than one pound, I assure you. ;)

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Zoom: Thank you. I shall update that list with the proper terms later tonight.

 

Talon: Join do you wish to join as student or teacher? IF teacher then teacher in what?

 

Now on todays lesson. Other medieval weapons and Armor.

 

1.Dagger: A dagger is a very small sword to describe their appearance at least. This is a versatile tool. Can be used for self defense, eating, or cutting ect. The average length of a dagger is usually 10 inches to 16 inches. Weighing mere oz, usually around 10 or so.

 

2.Dirk: This is a Scottish dagger basically. A dirk is single edged, where a dagger is doubled edged. Also dirks lack a cross guard.

 

3.Tanto: This is the Oriental version of a dagger.

 

4.Mace: A mace is a weapon used to give crushing blows. A mace is has flanges that angle from the shaft. The shaft can be wooden or metal. These were used with great effectiveness against plate armor.

 

5.Flail: A flail is a ball and chain weapon. It began it’s life as a farming implement. Poor farmers who had no money to buy a sword would bring this to the battle. It proved to be very effective, and deadly. Soon pure military flails were produced. Sometimes the ball will have spikes on it. This is another crushing weapon. It can wrap around shields.

 

6.War Hammer: These at first were simple hammers used by poor serfs, then as plate armor took hold they became more prevalent. War hammers usually have a flat head, or a pronged head. And a nice sharp spike on the other end.

 

7.Axe: You all should know what an axe is used for. Chopping blows. But it has military subclasses (see below)

 

8.War Axe: These are not meant to chop off limbs but to crush them. The blade is reinforced to allow it to crush armor. These like war hammers feature a spike on the other side of the axe. The spike served to balance the weapon and give another way to kill.

 

9.Battle Axe: These are the two headed axes.

 

10.War Club: Think of a baseball bat with large brass stubs, or sometimes metal spikes. They are light and deadly.

 

11.Pike: Pikes were the answer to heavy cavalry. And footmen Pikes are long weapons. To keep a sword wielding opponent from closing. They are light fast and very devastating. Pikes usually have a wooden shaft tipped with a spear head. They are usually 69 inches, weigh in at 4 pounds. Pikes can have an axe head, a spear head, and usually have spikes. Pikes are also called Pole-arms, and Halberds. There is a slight difference between them but not a very big one.

 

12.Main Gauche: This is a left handed Dagger. These came with the rapier and often used together. A main gauche can be as long as 22 inches. Remember some swords begin in the twenty inch range.

 

13.Spear: A spear is a long wooden shafted weapon. The head, is usually in a diamond shape with a sharp point. Spears are not always thrown, so some times they do have an edge to them.

 

And that is a Brief Description of the other types of weapons. Now on to armor, then finally shields. Armor is not as simple as you may think. There are many parts to a suit of armor. I will give each part the proper name, and a description of were it protects.

 

1.Coat of Mail: Often mail, is called chained mail, this is a modern invention and wrong when describing mail. Mail is a series of interlink rings of metal. It is light and flexible. Mail was worn basically in all time periods. Better mail will feature smaller rings. Mail primary use was to protect against arrows. (although useless without padding.) The draw back is that if cut with a sword, mail offered little protection and could actually kill you. If you survived the encounter, mail can give you diseases by having the broken rings come into contact with the wounds. It also rust easily. To clean mail put it in a bad with sand and shake it. This will remove rust. Then oil it heavily.

 

2.Mail Coif: A mail coif is just like a coat of mail, but for the head.

 

3.Solleret: Plate armor (all names from this point on will be referring to plate armor if other wise stated). Solleret protects the foot.

 

4.Greave or Jamb: Greaves protect the shine

 

5.Knee-Cop: Protects the knee, often it has a shell or fan plate to protect in joint from behind.

 

6.Cuishe: Protects the thigh

 

7.Fald: A ring of mail that protects the waist.

 

8.Tasset: Protects the thigh when bending over these are movable

 

9.Loin-Guard: Protects the back of your midriff.

 

10.Vembrace: Protects the forearm.

 

11.Backplate: Protects the back. Symbolizes prudence.

 

12.Breastplate: Protects you upper chest. Symbolizes virtue.

 

13.Elbow-Cop: Protects the elbow

 

14.Taces: Protects the frontal midriff

 

15.Gauntlet: Protect the hand. Usually metal on top and leather on the bottom. Symbolizes Friendship

 

16.Rerebrace: Protects the upper arm.

 

17.Lance Rest: This is where the lance rest, so the knight doesn’t have to carry the entire weapon in one hand.

 

18.Pauldron: Protects the shoulders.

 

19.Neck Guard: Protects the neck It is on the Pauldron, so a lance won’t hit your neck.

 

20.Bevor: Protects the throat

 

21.Gorget: The lower part of the bevor

 

22.Ventailrotects the face,

 

23.Jugular: Protects the sides of your head.

 

24.Bowl or Skull: Protects the skull.

 

25.Rondel: The back of the helmet.

 

26.Helmet: Protects the head, and face. The designs vary greatly. Symbolizes wisdom.

 

27.Great Helm: Worn over helmets, they have various designs, and when worn over a helmet become almost impervious.

 

28.Spurs: Well these are the spiked wheels that get a horse to move.

 

Shields: They are not only a defensive weapon, but can be used as an offensive weapon, you can push people, hit them with it. A shield is the symbol of mercy. Now shield info and types.

 

1.Round Shield: A shield in a circular shape. The most common shield. Circa 500-1200

 

2.Oval: An oval shield. Circa 500-1000

 

3.Tear Drop: A shield in the shape of a tear Circa 500-1200

 

4.Kite: A shield shaped like a kite. Circa 1000-1300

 

5.Heater: A classical shield (made famous by movies). Circa 1200-1500

 

Pommel styles: Viking Lobed, Wheel or Flat disc, Oval, Tea cozy, Apple, Wedge, Cocked Hat, Irish ring, Boat, Octagon, Key, Round, Scent Stopper, Fish tail, Faceted plum, Plum, fig.

 

Handle styles: Tapered, Barrel, Swollen, Belted, Bottle, Waist, Inverted waist.

 

That finishes todays lessons. Before I dismiss the class. As soon as a site goes up were I initially taught this pics will be available (sooner if someone else were to host them). Upon request I will send anyone a word document that contains this information. Finally if you are in search of a historically accurate weapons that can be used (ie battle ready) I know of a couple of places. Please PM me if you wish for any of this.

 

Otherwise are there any questions?

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Originally posted by ZBomber

Well, sorta lazy to read all the replys, but I can help teach lightsaber skills (not in video games, in real life, I always battle my friend. :))

 

So do I get the job? I can post pictures with my lessons... :)

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Ahum, yes Z. By all means, please post anything you wish to say. You *might* wanna read the other posts, though. It helps if you know what the other professors have already covered... ;)

 

Talon: It appears you have. *(Tosses Talon a wooden stick.)* Defend yourself! :D

 

Admiral: What is a misericord? Is it just a dagger, or a specialized weapon?

 

I'm well pleased with how this thread is turning out. Good job, all. :) If anyone has questions, please jump in. We promise not to make fun of dumb questions too much. Meanwhile, I wouldn't be Zoom Rabbit if I didn't at least once spam like a big, fat dog in the sun.

 

:assult:

 

Wally the space dolphin says that he, personally, has little use for swords, as he knows an obscure chi manipluation technique that he learned from trans-dimensional fairies in a remote cave somewhere in the Himalayas which enables him to turn any weapon directed against him into a handful of yellow flowers, instantly making his attacker look extremely foolish in the eyes of his comrades and psychologically defusing the whole mindset of war to begin with.

 

Hmm. :rolleyes: I don't suppose you'd be willing the pass that technique along, would you?

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Students ask questions, and teachers are those who provide the answers. That is the way of things. :D Note that one can be either student or teacher as the occasion fits.

 

Admiral: Love it. I have instructions on just how to do that...

 

Building a lightsaber that works

 

1. Take a flashlight and remove the batteries; replace them with high-watt sarium krellide cells.

 

2. Replace lightbulb and reflector with plasma charge and energy collonator assembly. Be sure to attatch a five gigawatt microfuse in line when you wire the sarium krellide cells to the switch and collonator assembly...safety first.

 

3. Discard plastic lens and fit in its place a duopolymer static field emitter crystal, rated for a maximum of five gigawatts.

 

4. Screw the lens cap back on. You're ready to rock. :D

 

Tonight's real lecture: Practice

 

In the section labeled 'Sticks' I talk about choosing a practice stick for indidvidual workouts, and in my next post I talk about the stick to use for sparring. Since it is a safety issue, I will make that matter clear.

 

Bokken: heavy wooden practice stick, one piece, which resembles a samurai sword. Not intended for use against a partner, but rather an individual practice tool for working out one's own sword skills alone.

 

Shinai: light bamboo sparring stick, made of four pieces tied together and highly flexible, with a padded cover over the tip. These sticks are straight, and quite light. Getting hit by one doesn't hurt much at all, which is why they are the ONLY kind of stick that you should use to hit another person when sparring...unless you're friggin' Zorro, in which case you have enough skill with even a sharp steel blade to completely ignore what I have to say on the matter. ;) Everyone else: shinai only in sparring, because I said so.

 

Individual workouts are (in my opinion) more important than sparring in developing swordsmanship skills. If you pick up your bokken every night, go through the stretches and work out a few cuts as a part of your daily routine, you will eventually get much more hands-on experience than if you just wait for the occasion when you happen to have a sword buddy visiting. When the buddy does visit, it's good to get in the sparring (obviously, having an opponent helps you work out things you can't alone), but if you've been doing your daily 'homework,' (and he hasn't) then you will be the winner.

 

Working out must be preceded by stretching. If you don't want dislocated ribs or a torn rotator cuff, then be wise and stretch beforehand. I usually stretch with my bokken, slowly moving it through it's full range of motion and stretching my back as I do so. You can work out your own stretching routine, but be sure to focus on the back and shoulders, as that is the part of the body which takes the most punishment.

 

Your actual workout should include some strength training for the arm and wrist. Just hold the sword out over your head and swish it to the right, then left in a big figure eight (8), over and over. Pretty easy, huh? Do it faster, and keep doing it until your arm is too heavy to continue. :) Do this every night and grow stronger.

 

Now that you've tired yourself, work out some Highlander cuts. Try your cut from different angles, and note your body position; if your feet are too close together, then spread them out to give yourself more stability. Why do this after getting tired with the sword-swinging? If you ever do find yourself transported back in time to a sword battle, you will be quite winded when you try those cuts out in reality. ;)

 

This is a pointer that will prevent serious back trouble later in life. This lesson cost me thousands of dollars in doctor's bills (not to mention pain), so please forgive if I boldface the mother. Switch the sword to your other hand fifty percent of the time and practice that hand. The proper way of holding a samurai sword misaligns the lower back on the left side (if you're right-handed) when done repeatedly; the only way to counter this is to switch hands and exercise the opposing muscle groups. I know practicing with your non-dominant hand is odd, and feels backwards, but it does get easier with practice. I know some yoga that helps facilitate ambidexterity (being able to use both hands equally) which I will pass on later, when I break into the zen; for now, just try it, and switch hands.

 

Okay, that's enough talk on working out, other than the simple key to it all: just DO it. :D

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Originally posted by Zoom Rabbit

I know practicing with your non-dominant hand is odd, and feels backwards, but it does get easier with practice. I know some yoga that helps facilitate ambidexterity (being able to use both hands equally) which I will pass on later, when I break into the zen; for now, just try it, and switch hands.

Actually for me this is not a problem. I am part ambidextrous already. When I was a youngin' I was almost completely ambidextrous. This has degenerated to a point where I favor my right for most things,.. but I always swing a baseball bat lefty. This means that I also tend to hold a sword the same way, with what most people would call a lefty grip. In fact, a righty grip feels kinda wierd and foreign to me, but if I concentrate a bit, I can usually focus enough to quickly switch a task to using the other hand. When I broke my right wrist I got to the point where I could write and draw with my left almost as well within a couple of weeks.

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Originally posted by Zoom Rabbit

Building a lightsaber that works

1. Take a flashlight and remove the batteries; replace them with high-watt sarium krellide cells.

2. Replace lightbulb and reflector with plasma charge and energy collonator assembly. Be sure to attatch a five gigawatt microfuse in line when you wire the sarium krellide cells to the switch and collonator assembly...safety first.

3. Discard plastic lens and fit in its place a duopolymer static field emitter crystal, rated for a maximum of five gigawatts.

4. Screw the lens cap back on. You're ready to rock. :D

:D

You know that advise about building a lightsaber - well it doesnt actually work coz if almost fried myself! Nah, only joking!

 

So, you say you can be either a Teacher or a Student - but what exactly do you have to write about! Awaiting reply.... LOL

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The beginnings of the sword

 

The sword makes its first appearance in large numbers in early Egypt. Early swords were made from flint, since metalworking technologies had not been descovered yet. This made the sword primarily a stabbing/poking type weapon, since flint is too brittle to withstand constant slashing. After metalworking was discovered, once again Egypt was at the forefront of technology, producing swords in comparitively large quantities. An example of the typical Egyptian sword would be the khopesh, the forerunner to the European falchion, and a symbol of the Pharoh's power. Here is a picture of the khopesh:

 

khopeshsword-th.jpg

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Swordsmanship eh?

 

Me and my friend "dueled" a few times, if you call swinging toy lightsabers that makes the cool *whoosh* and *crackling* sound and trying ti hit each other with them, then yes, I've "dueled." :p

 

I would use Qui-Gon's saber, and my friends would always use Darth Maul's. I'd always hit him the most too. It is actually hard to use a double sided lightsaber. We'd duel upstairs but after a broken window and almost falling through it :eek: we dueled in the back yard :D

 

What the heck, maybe I'll actually learn something from this.

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Edlib: You are a lucky man! Any swordsman would envy what you've been given. My advice with a sword for you would be to go lefty. ;) Most others are right-handed, and a left-handed swordsman upsets them quick-time Musashi style! I'll bet being ambidextrous is handy with the guitar, too.

 

Talon: What do you have to write about? Well, Admiral's covering medieval and renaissance European weapons, I'm covering Japanese swordsmanship and zen, Kylilin has history and development of the sword (and readings from the Hagakure), Niner's covering sabers and I believe Cracken has a thing or two to say about basic swordsmanship. Oh, yeah...ZBomber will take care of lightsabers. I think that leaves you with...hmm...I guess latrines and medieval battlefield sanitation. :D Just kidding. My advice is too write about what you know--or, if that fails, ask about what you'd like to know.

 

Kylilin: So is that a bronze weapon or iron? Probably not steel, given the time period. ;)

 

Starwarsphreak: Given your experience with the window, I'd say the most important thing for you to learn from this thread is safety first. :) Please, let's not anyone get hurt doing this...

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I am Sensai-Kjølen, you may call me Kjølen-sama, and only K-jo if your a good student, I will teach you the art of Youkai Swords. Mine will be Tetsusiaga, and all you have to do is enroll under me and I will give you a good sword, and tell you what the name means. It shall fit you.

 

To be a good Youkai Swordsman, you must have these traits:

 

1 - Impatience

2 - Attitude

3 - Ability to swing a sword around in a barbariac fashion

4 - Call me by a correct name and suffix

5 - You must be a baka

 

Any enrollers?

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