goldenbob1973 Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 I tried every single day this week to download the saber tut with no ____ success. the download link takes me to the starwarsknights.com web site. I have looked all over for it , but can't seem to find it. So I simply don't care anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SithRevan Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 I tried every single day this week to download the saber tut with no ____ success. the download link takes me to the starwarsknights.com web site. I have looked all over for it , but can't seem to find it. So I simply don't care anymore. Gve me a pm with your email. I have it on my computer and I can send it to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciscoboy Posted January 26, 2007 Share Posted January 26, 2007 I am new to kotor modding and decided to try something simple. I am trying to create my own sabre using T7's sabre replacement guide. Getting to the unwrapping stage and info is thin on the ground. I've create a hilt in gmax and am at the unwrapping stage. I've been able to unwrap the sides and then at the top/emitter but having trouble with adding the bottom/base to the unwrap. It is a basic model with no switch pretty similar to T7's guide. Also how do you import a hilt from it original KOTOR state to gmax. I need a step by step guide as I haven't done this before. Info can be emailed to me at [PM me] . Mod note: Please do not post your email address on the forums, it will only invite harvesting spam bots. You can use the Private Message function, or the email option in the profile, to contact others directly. ~M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldenbob1973 Posted January 27, 2007 Share Posted January 27, 2007 I am stuck on the part where i am supose to link the two sabers together. i am not sure what to do. it is a little confusing. any help would be appriciated. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciscoboy Posted January 28, 2007 Share Posted January 28, 2007 Yes I am stuck at the same point as Goldenbob1973 . I've just aligned the pivot points and am unsure of where to go from there in the tute. I've tried a few things and can't seem to be able to get a file when I export. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leviont Posted February 15, 2007 Share Posted February 15, 2007 im a total noob and im stuck at the bit were you follow the 13 pictures with no instructions its realy hard to get it to look right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavroche Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 Yep, I followed this tutorial until I got lost at the UVWmapping part. I didn't understand svösh's tutorial and Waylon's one uses 3ds max. I just can't see what I have to do when I finished to model my hilt. Could somebody explain that ? I'd be really grateful. Edit : Just tried again svösh's. I'm lost at this point : The section you just mapped is in a free transform gizmo now take this selected part and move off to the left. Now lets make the right and left have the same texture cords so we select both sides holding ctrl + left clicking you can add to your selection. Ok so now with both sides selected the mapping gizmo should be dead center so in th Y axis hit Planar again now move this off to the side in the edit window with enough space so when you go back you don’t accidentally click the wrong part. And do the same for the rest on the X axis for front / back So the way I have just instructed you will have identical textures on opposite sides of your box , some time you don’t want this so in that case just select one side and map one at a time . ok so now there is a border area in the edit window that all of your mapping has to fit back inside, this is the hot zone that the model looks for , select it all and right click chose scale and scale it down to fit you can zoom in make any adjustment you want flip on a mirror axis and use the fast 90 or – 90 rotate tools to make this fit and match up I I understood correctly, in the Edit window i should have the three parts of the map ? I don't have them, everytime I hit X, Y or Z (and Planar Map each time), the new part replaces the other one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GamerX51 Posted June 9, 2007 Share Posted June 9, 2007 I really hate to bump a post that's well over a month old, but I really need help with this tutorial! I got all the way to the end of part one, but then I got lost when T7 said that he would "let the old saying prove it's point." I must be really stupid, because I have absolutely no idea how to proceed from there! Will someone please give me a blow-by-blow explanation of exactly what extrude and bevel values I need to use to make the hilt he made in the tutorial? Again, I'm really sorry for the Uber-Noob question, but I really have no idea where to go from here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneFerret Posted June 9, 2007 Share Posted June 9, 2007 I really hate to bump a post that's well over a month old, but I really need help with this tutorial! I got all the way to the end of part one, but then I got lost when T7 said that he would "let the old saying prove it's point." I must be really stupid, because I have absolutely no idea how to proceed from there! Will someone please give me a blow-by-blow explanation of exactly what extrude and bevel values I need to use to make the hilt he made in the tutorial? Again, I'm really sorry for the Uber-Noob question, but I really have no idea where to go from here! Holy cow, haven't been on this forum for a while. Anyway, it's been a while since I've made a hilt, but if I remember the tut you are talking about, you don't really need to use the exact values. Just play around with them, at least this way you'll get a better feeling of bevel & extrude. Trial and error is really the best way to learn to make a hilt in my opinion, I mean what's the worst that can happen.. start over? yup... not the end of the world. Have fun, hope this helps... just don't go crazy on the values, and when playing with the values use small numbers increments. loneferret Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
croma Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 Can I do the same with head models? I tried to use Bao-Dur's head from TSL and put it in as PC in KOTOR1 but in character selection screen, the head looks like a space ship (and the size too). Where did I go wrong? Sorry croma, but we do not allow 'Porting' discussions here, even for personal use. Rule #7. -RH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
croma Posted June 14, 2007 Share Posted June 14, 2007 Whoops, sorry! My god, ignorance is a mistake these days. Well, I'll just hit another spot and forget about it. Sorry again for the trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarthParametric Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 I know it has been well over a year since the last post, but I figured posting this here made more sense than starting a brand new thread (especially since the first likely response would be to read this thread). Anyway, I've been struggling with GMax trying to get it to import some saber hilts modelled in Cinema 4D and then export them as MDLs. I've pretty much ripped out what little remaining hair I have, but I have finally succeeded in getting a hilt into the game. Unfortunately things didn't go quite as planned.... There appear to be three problems. The first two are in-game and are apparent by the above screenshots - the hilt is offset from the hand by a wide margin and the blade is split in three. I followed all the steps in T7's tutorial subsequent to the modelling and UV mapping (since I did that in C4D). I imported w_lghtsbr_001 and unlinked the hilt (lshandle01), scaled my hilt to the same size and lined up the emitters, aligned the pivot points, resetxform, linked my hilt to the dummy, then exported. I got a huge list of unwelded points in the sanity check (despite "Weld to Nearest cm" being unchecked in the sanity check list). Anyone got some suggestions on possible causes and solutions? The third problem is with the new MDL made by using MDLOps replace function (i.e. the one used in-game). When I make an ASCII version of this and try and open it in GMax, I get the following error: Any idea what the cause of this is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ForeverNight Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Are you importing it through NWMax? Otherwise, the same problem (Without the import) is happening to me all the time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarthParametric Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Are you importing it through NWMax? Yep, running the program via nwmax.exe and importing via the NWmax pop-up/window, the same way I import every other MDL - ones ripped from the game or ones from mods. Never had this error with any other MDL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ForeverNight Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Hmmm..... I have no idea how this is happening then... NWMax was the only idea I had. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChAiNz.2da Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 What version of both NWMax and MDLOps are you using? When using Gmax instead of 3dsMax, I got the best results working with NWMax v7.. and MDLOps v5. Max 7 doesn't have the (global) sanity checking errors (at least not to the .8 extent). I can't find a link for the old NWmax version.. but I might be able to find it in my archives when I get home later tonite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarthParametric Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 0.8b60 of NWmax. 0.6.1a1 of MDLOps. Old versions of NWmax from 0.4 upwards are available on the official site on the downloads page - http://nwmax.dladventures.com/download/ They have 0.7 for GMax there. Will try it out. EDIT1 : Nope, still get the error on loading that hilt when using the 0.7/0.5 combo. Will try exporting the hilt from scratch using those and see if it is any better. EDIT 2: Woo! Success! Using the 0.7/0.5 combo and starting from scratch gave zero sanity errors on export and the resultant model after undergoing replacement could then be converted back to ASCII and opened in GMax no problem. Thanks ChAiNz.2da !! It also mostly solved my in-game issues as well. The blade is now proper and whole, and the hilt is in the PC's hand. There is some minor clipping of the hand through the hilt though. Observe: Not sure if that is a size issue (the hilt is a bit fatter than the default hilt) or something else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ForeverNight Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 More than likely... Thanks for the point towards .5 for MDLops, I wonder if .6.1a1 might be my problem too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChAiNz.2da Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 EDIT 2: Woo! Success! Using the 0.7/0.5 combo and starting from scratch gave zero sanity errors on export and the resultant model after undergoing replacement could then be converted back to ASCII and opened in GMax no problem. Thanks ChAiNz.2da !! Awesome! Glad to see it worked for you *whew*... glad it did, I wasn't sure what to suggest next... hehehe It also mostly solved my in-game issues as well. The blade is now proper and whole, and the hilt is in the PC's hand. There is some minor clipping of the hand through the hilt though. Observe: Not sure if that is a size issue (the hilt is a bit fatter than the default hilt) or something else. Yeah, I have that problem too on some of my hilts.. it's the larger diameter of custom models most of the time. Any of the sabers I ever built that had any kind of detail had a bigger diameter and clipped the hand. Unfortunately it's a small casualty of the limited modeling available to us. It's either thinner, hard-to-see details tubes... or pimped out sabers with some clipping when either idle or flourish (flourish in my case in the above pic). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarthParametric Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 I'm actually wondering whether my issue is related to the import process. Tried two other hilts and even scaling them down you can see it's more that they are off center rather than just too wide. The strange thing is though that they look fine in GMax. EDIT 1: Turns out it was a pivot point/axis issue. When doing the align pivot point it was offsetting the X axis. By only choosing to align the position of the Z axis (as well as still aligning the orientation for all 3 axes) the problem was resolved. The saber now sits properly in the hand. EDIT 2: With further playing around it looks like the problem is actually the hand position when dual wielding. Seems that the left hand for males and the right hand for females isn't positioned properly - doesn't grip the hilt properly when relaxed and clips through it when swinging. The opposite hand is fine when dual wielding and both hands line up properly when holding a single saber in both hands. Guess there is something screwy in the animations. This is in TSL - not sure what it's like in K1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svösh Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 ^^^ It's from sloppy hand helpers on the body models . Try your saber in single wield stance as well, males and females hold their sabers differently. I try to make my hilts thinner then the stock hilts to minimize the clipping , but there is nothing for it really all the hands clip in one way or another. dbl sabers, or single. @ForeverNight I tried Mdlops 0.6.1a1 and 0.6.4 alpha both split the blade mesh like DarthParametric's pic above only mdlops .5 works properly for sabers. svösh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarthParametric Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 ^^^ It's from sloppy hand helpers on the body models.Yeah I eventually figured that out. Single wield is OK for males, in dual wield for females the problem hand is the right (i.e. opposite to the male). I have a bigger problem though. It seems that while GMax will import my UV map correctly (importing the model as an OBJ exported from Cinema 4D) and export it properly as an ASCII MDL, when the exported file gets run through MDLOps replacer the UV map gets screwed up. My guess was that MDLOps didn't like single meshes being unwrapped in such a fashion. I figured it wanted all polys in a single object to be contiguous on the UV map. It seemed to me (from my limited understanding of how GMax works) that perhaps the problem could be solved by splitting off certain sections of the mesh into new objects, as the original in-game sabers appear to be multi-part and various tutorials talk about splitting off polys during UV mapping. I did that but then when doing the resetxform step the hilt reverted to its original giant scale and orientation rather than staying scaled and positioned to the game hilt I'd imported to link it to. I decided to export it anyway to see if the UV map issue was at least resolved but it still screwed it up in exactly the same manner after being run through MDLOps. Here's a pic showing the original UV map (left) and the screwed in-game UV map (right), as well as the 5 groups of polys that were split off into separate objects to try and (unsuccessfully) fix the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inyri Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 If you have detached edges in your UV map, you need to cleave those edges in your mesh as well otherwise KotOR will get angry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarthParametric Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 That's what I thought I was doing by detaching the groups of polys illustrated in the pic. Each group of polys corresponds to a discrete section of the UV map. Can you explain the correct way to do it in more detail? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svösh Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 Just select logical groups of ploys like in your pic above but in polygon sub selection mode. Then hit detach and check on "detach to element" Since our sabers have to be one mesh object. This will create the seams for your uv map Then map it like you split it up or in your case split your model up like your uv svösh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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