Falkener Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 ... Actually, some people don't have rar. although ur right about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightFox Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 lol , i think rar is one of the most needed programs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappa_0 Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 Well its not, ZIP's are the best file for everybody. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthenik Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 Wrong, Zappa. RARs have a better compression level. Not quite as good as 7z (google it up), but it's good nonetheless. Just get WinRAR, it can open everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappa_0 Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 But zips are better for all pc or mac users. And I wasnt talking about the compression level. The file can stay up, but we at PCGM likes things to be zipped up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tesla(DF) Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 Actually, Dragon Unpacker can open everything, from Descent Hog files to PK4 and UTX that aside, I'd like to ask marz if he could teach me how he made the texture for the RC Helmet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightFox Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 Hey sorry but my zip wuz damaged by virus or something and i use rar now ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Goat Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 As for the JO remarks, it might aswell be dead. The game right now is JA. You dont see many new files coming in for JO these days, thats why the main game is JA. Mainly the people who still play JO is the people who doesnt like JA. Not true. Many people still play Jedi Outcast; I should know, I do all the time, and many of the servers there are often swarming with people. And a lot of these people, including me, play both games. (Though who cares why people are playing JO?) The majority of the files might be coming out for Jedi Academy, but that has little to do with whether people are still playing JO. They are. Anyway, I've gotten a chance to try out the new clones in Jedi Academy, and I love them. They surpass the previous clones by far. Team VM did an excellent job. Maybe after the final version of the clones comes out, someone else could convert them to JO, if Marz doesn't want to do it? This is a seminal creation; it should be available for both games. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappa_0 Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 SG drop the subject, its dead (the subject not the game). Fox you should try reinstalling winzip. That might solve your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthenik Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 What's so good about zips, Zappa? I don't see the reason why you don't want to move to rar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightFox Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 Zappa well i kinda like RAR better the original size of my skins is 4mb in rar its 2mb rar is realy better ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappa_0 Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 Its sites policy, so dont be getting on something that I have no control over. It wouldnt be much with winzip either. Theres not really much of a difference in the size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeoMarz1 Posted January 8, 2006 Author Share Posted January 8, 2006 Heh i started making scoarch ... dun worry soon he will look better and better ... Do you save these Base skins separate from the ones that you add the dings and scratches. I think they look good, but I'm not so sure about the smudge effect around the joints. I you have photo shop, you should use layering method. Make one layer that is grey (separate from the skin), then use the sponge filter, then use the emboss. This should give you some dinged up surface appearance. Next drop this layer at roughly 50% transparency. Then erase areas that you dont want dings. I'll try and post an example. Marzout O.k. I dont like to share my secrets too much, but this will give you an idea of how to work in some dings. Keep in mind you have 2 layers. One has the skin, the other has the embossed texture grade. Hope this will help, this is just a quick example... nothing fancy. Marzout Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tesla(DF) Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 Wow... that helps alot Marz Thank you for sharing some of your style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthenik Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 Yeah, it took me a while to realize that skinning was all about the use of those filters and layer effects. Or it might just seem that way. I personally think so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pahricida Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 Now that you bring this up Marz: A few of your older skins make excessive use of the sponge tool. Though the quality remained I never liked the effect. I'm glad you somehow toned that down a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeoMarz1 Posted January 9, 2006 Author Share Posted January 9, 2006 Now that you bring this up Marz: A few of your older skins make excessive use of the sponge tool. Though the quality remained I never liked the effect. I'm glad you somehow toned that down a bit. Believe it or not, I use to actually hand draw the old sponge effect, didnt realize there was a filter for the same thing. I know I used to use it alot, but now Ive learned to fill space with other effects. I find that you use as many tricks as you can, and build your layers. The end can be pretty rewarding. Marzout I'm very happy with this 256x256 res hand skin for my Magnaguard. I used copy and paste for the nuts, and a bunch of layers using burn, dodge, and scratching effects. I think this illustrates just how much detail can be squeezed into a small image. Effective layering really helps alot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappa_0 Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 Looks cool! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tesla(DF) Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 List of variants. EPII Clone ARC Trooper EPIII Clone Thire Appo Airborne Commando Marine Bacara Cody Bly Deviss List completed. Dynamic Icons not complete. EPII Clone ARC Trooper you need to understand this is very hard organizational work, and alot of texture editing to select colors delete grayscale, and .skin files are murder on the hands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pahricida Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 so you are making the models use the generic RGB Colors ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pahricida Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 I'm very happy with this 256x256 res hand skin for my Magnaguard. I used copy and paste for the nuts, and a bunch of layers using burn, dodge, and scratching effects. I think this illustrates just how much detail can be squeezed into a small image. Effective layering really helps alot. Yes its pretty detailed! If you want to enter the detail frenzy you could still rotate the screws so the nicks don't all face the same directions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightFox Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 Do you save these Base skins separate from the ones that you add the dings and scratches. I think they look good, but I'm not so sure about the smudge effect around the joints. I you have photo shop, you should use layering method. Make one layer that is grey (separate from the skin), then use the sponge filter, then use the emboss. This should give you some dinged up surface appearance. Next drop this layer at roughly 50% transparency. Then erase areas that you dont want dings. I'll try and post an example. Marzout O.k. I dont like to share my secrets too much, but this will give you an idea of how to work in some dings. Keep in mind you have 2 layers. One has the skin, the other has the embossed texture grade. Hope this will help, this is just a quick example... nothing fancy. Marzout Wow Marz thanks this realy helped...next time ill use this method...Thnks again ill save till next reskin of troopers or robots or something that cud hawe damaged paint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pahricida Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 ugh, did you have to quote the whole message to say that? :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aracus92 Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 tesla, just a point of interest from me, how many .skin files are you up at currently ?and how many will there be? why im wondering, wanna know how much worse you have it than i had doing this http://www.pcgamemods.com/mod/17835.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthenik Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 I'd say alot more, as you didn't really have to dynamically *off the parts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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